So You Think You Know Filler? Here’s 6 Things You Might Not Know…

Dermal filler is one of the most talked about tweakments in the aesthetics industry, but how much do you really know about it – and how many myths are you currently believing? Probably more than you think…

From confusion around why and when it can start looking unnatural (and how to avoid that) to the one skin concern it can treat better than any other tweakment, here are six things you should really know about dermal filler. Consider it your all-important cheat sheet.

1. There are different types of dermal filler – that’s what makes it so versatile 

Dermal fillers are broadly defined as injectable gels made of high-density molecules – normally hyaluronic acid molecules – which add volume or structure to the face. But, while we tend to talk about filler like it is one homogeneous product, there are many  different varieties. It makes sense when you think about it… the type of product you want to create volume in your lips should probably be a little different – say, softer and more stretchy – to one that restructures your cheekbones, redefines your chin, rejuvenates tired eyes, or smooths your wrinkles.

A well-trained practitioner will know what type works best for what area, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t ask them about it in your consultation to make sure. The brands to know include Restylane from Galderma and MaiLi from Sinclair – both of which offer products with varying concentrations and structures (aka softer and firmer filler options) to help restore facial structure in different ways, or to boost lip volume.

2. Filler is the only thing that will revolumise an ageing face

While energy-based devices can do many things, they can’t touch filler when it comes to replacing lost volume and structure in an ageing face. That’s because, when injected, dermal filler physically restores volume – acting a bit like additional scaffolding for your face – while other treatments have to rely only on stimulating your body’s depleting collagen and elastin production (which some dermal fillers can do at the same time). Similarly, while toxin might be able to smooth away wrinkles very successfully, it also can’t restore any of the facial volume you have lost – and it’s often this gauntness that really ages your face.

3. Dermal filler is not the same as toxin … or skin boosters

Injectables are big business and each year there seems to be another one to add to the list, but they aren’t all the same – and you do want to make sure you understand the differences before booking in.

For example, while both dermal filler and injectable moisturisers such as Profhilo are made from hyaluronic acid, the latter does not have filler’s plumping effect and is not injected as deeply as these products focus on boosting hydration. Similarly, polynucleotides work to initiate your body’s natural rejuvenation processes rather than physically adding volume. (They are also comprised of long chains of the building blocks of DNA, not hyaluronic acid). Finally, toxin might be great at reducing muscle contractions for smoothing wrinkles, but it’s a completely different substance and works in a totally different way to all of the above.

4. Filler does not automatically migrate

Migration – aka the risk that filler will move from its injection site and cause problems elsewhere on your face – can be a scary thought when it comes to filler. But, as one practitioner at a recent event shared, filler doesn’t just walk off and catch the bus (and it is relatively rare too). Migration may occur, for example in areas like the lips which are quite tight and mobile – leading to the characteristically unwanted ‘shelf lip’ – but really only if a lot of filler has been injected, so it has nowhere else to go.

This risk can be easily mitigated by a slow and steady approach to injecting and by closely following the aftercare instructions given to you by your practitioner. If it does happen, the misplaced filler does have to be dissolved with hyaluronidase and you need to start again, but it should, at least, be fairly easily resolvable.

5. It doesn’t have to look unnatural (and often doesn’t!)

Conversations about filler being ‘cancelled’ have become rife – often due to accusations of them looking fake, and the supposed rush of ‘overfilled’ celebs getting theirs dissolved. It’s true that prominent filler is really noticeable and there’s certainly a backlash against the ‘pillow lips’ and overly angular cheekbones popularised by social media and reality TV. However, it doesn’t have to look that way. Filler can really successfully (and subtly) redefine and rebalance your face in a way that other tweaks just can’t, and a small amount can do wonders for neatly plumping out wrinkles and your pout too. Most practitioners now prefer (and recommend) a ‘less is more’ approach with top-up appointments if required, and if you do overdo it, hylauronic acid fillers can be dissolved by your practitioner.

At the end of the day, filler just needs to be in the right hands … which leads us neatly on to…

6. The practitioner is more important than the product

The top dermal filler brands will – quite rightly – talk a lot about the proven safety of their products, and you should definitely take notice of that! However, it really means nothing if you don’t go to the right practitioner. As Alice has long stressed, ‘all products are only as good as the hands that are using them’ – and that’s especially true for injectables, both in terms of artistry and experience.

We don’t mean you should only book in with the practitioner with their name on the door (we understand your budget might not reach that far), but you do want to ensure that whoever you are seeing has the training, skill and competence to get you the results you want. That means avoiding ‘too good to be true’ deals and checking your chosen expert has the correct medical background, and the training and experience to deal with any complications that might arise. That should be a non-negotiable.

To find the best practitioner in your area for dermal fillers, head to our practitioner directory.