Can This Trending Ingredient Really Reduce Wrinkles Without Side Effects?

Right now we can hardly blink in the TTG office without being told about another exciting skincare launch involving peptides – the wrinkle-smoothing active without any side effects like dryness and purging (unlike our old friends, the retinoids). But what are the new generation of peptides called mini proteins, how do they work, and are they really the hero ingredient your skincare routine needs to make wrinkles disappear? Here’s our cheat sheet…

What are peptides?

Peptides are short chains of amino acids (aka the building blocks of proteins), and in skincare, they are designed to act as messengers that communicate with your skin to stimulate various functions. Send the right peptides into action, the theory goes, and they will act like keys to turn on particular processes in the skin, such as collagen production, hydration, and skin repair. In particular, by boosting skin processes that slow down as we age, the aim is to avoid (and smooth out) key signs of ageing such as wrinkles and dehydration.

Why are they celebrated for tackling wrinkles?

The main reason peptides have earned their status as skincare superheroes is their ability to ‘top up’ our body’s falling collagen production as we age. Collagen is a key protein involved in maintaining the skin’s structure and elasticity, but over time, your skin’s fibroblast cells, which produce collagen, slow down. This leads to the development of wrinkles and fine lines.

By incorporating the right peptides into your routine, you’re essentially giving your skin a signal to produce more collagen, increasing its overall health to protect against the development and worsening of wrinkles. And, because peptides stimulate skin health from within, you don’t get side effects such as purging, peeling or irritation.

Peptides are also known for increasing skin hydration. Dry skin tends to emphasise fine lines, so by reinforcing your skin’s moisture balance, peptides can further ensure your skin remains smooth and fine-line-free without compromises.

What is the latest in peptide technology?

Mini proteins are the new kids on the peptide block – increasingly found in clinically-proven and leading skincare brands like Medik8 and Trinny London. They are especially small and engineered peptides consisting of only 20 to 50 amino acids, which are designed to mimic the structure and function of larger proteins.

Compared to traditional peptides, which are longer and more generalised, mini-proteins are precise! Their smaller size allows for better penetration to the deeper layers of your skin, as well as faster, more targeted action (without the need for complicated delivery systems). They are also more stable. This all leads to better collagen stimulation and improved skin elasticity and hydration over time, meaning they offer quick and visible results with minimal irritation.

What other types of peptides are there?

The best peptide products still offer a combination of different peptides to treat signs of ageing. Other types of peptides include:

Signal peptides: help to communicate with skin cells, triggering processes like collagen and elastin production. They are particularly useful for improving skin texture and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Examples: Matrixyl (Matrixyl 3000, Matrixyl Synthe’6)

Carrier peptides: are responsible for delivering trace elements, such as copper or magnesium, to the skin. Copper peptides, in particular, are known for their ability to boost collagen production and accelerate wound healing, giving the skin a rejuvenated appearance.

Examples: Copper Peptides (GHK-Cu), Tripeptide-1, EGF (Oligopeptide-1)

Enzyme inhibitor peptides: help to slow down the breakdown of collagen and elastin, which naturally occurs with age. By preventing the enzymes that cause this breakdown, enzyme inhibitor peptides help maintain the skin’s firmness and elasticity.

Examples:Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9

Neuropeptides: Neuropeptides such Argireline can help relax the muscles beneath the skin’s surface, minimising the formation of expression lines like crow’s feet and forehead wrinkles. They are gaining traction as a needle-free alternative-ish to toxin, aka ‘Notox’ skincare.

Examples: Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8), Syn-Ake (Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate)

Are peptides or retinoids better for wrinkles?

Both work! But, what’s best for you depends on your preferred approach. Retinoids are arguably ‘punchier’. Backed by decades of clinical research, retinoids speed up your skin cell turnover, as well as stimulating collagen production, with relatively quick results when it comes to improving the appearance of fine lines, discolouration and acne. However, they are notorious for often causing irritation and sun sensitivity, and are not recommended for use during pregnancy.

Peptides on the other hand are much gentler on the skin and they improve hydration and fight inflammation while stimulating collagen production, making them suitable for sensitive skin and use during pregnancy. However, this softer approach traditionally meant you needed to wait longer for results – which is why mini proteins are set to be so popular – and some less potent peptide formulas won’t provide as dramatic results.

Ultimately, though you don’t even have to choose between them. You can use them both within your routine should you wish…

TTG-approved peptide skincare 

The new serum: Medik8 Liquid Peptides Advanced MP, £79

An exciting new launch that contains all four categories of peptides, plus breakthrough Dual MiniProteins. In fact, it contains 13 peptides in all, and is clinically proven to instantly (but not permanently) reduce the appearance of expression lines in 10 minutes and to reduce deep-set wrinkles in 8 weeks.

The targeted eye cream: Trinny London Take Time Eye Cream, £65

Proven to soften lines around your eyes in just 7 days, Trinny’s cream uses mini proteins and signalling peptides to supercharge collagen production and slow down signs of ageing in the delicate eye area.

The award-winning cream: Meder Beauty Arma-Lift Firming Concentrate, SHOP NOW

One of our favourite brands for the nourishing treatment of wrinkles (and other signs of ageing), this firming and smoothing concentrate is powered by signalling growth factor peptides. It is recommended for perimenopausal and menopausal skin.

The neck cream: Revision Skincare Nectifirm Advanced, £170, SHOP NOW

This brilliant serum for keeping your neck and décolletage looking as young as possible combines eight different peptides across all categories to boost collagen production and reduce expression lines. It teams them with a blend of antioxidants and prebiotics, too.

How to add peptides into your skincare routine

Get your hands on a peptide serum, moisturiser and/or eye cream and you can easily integrate it into your routine. Simply apply it after cleansing and before any heavier creams or oils. Peptide products can be used in the morning (for hydration) and at night (for repair and recovery) too, as they don’t cause sun sensitivities. If using retinoids and peptides together, apply your retinoid first, wait a few minutes, then apply the peptides.

Still have questions? You can also discuss building a results-driven skincare routine with TTG’s skincare specialist Shenaz, by booking in for a personalised consultation.

Find more skincare solutions for all your main concerns, over at the TTG skincare shop.