Do You Actually Have To Stop Retinoids When On Holiday?

Do retinoids really make your skin more sun sensitive? Can you ever use them effectively in the sunshine, without causing more damage to your skin? There’s actually more myths out there than you might think!

We spoke to two skin experts – the consultant dermatologist and founder of The Skin Diary Dr Clare Kiely and aesthetics practitioner Dr Ayah Siddiqi – to get the facts you need on how to use retinoids wisely when the weather heats up…

Very quickly – remind me what retinoids are?

Do retinoids actually make your skin more sun sensitive?

Actually – not exactly.

“This is a common point of confusion,” explains Dr Kiely. “Topical retinoids are not photosensitising, they are photolabile. Photolabile means the molecule breaks down in sunlight, which can reduce its effectiveness if exposed to UV.”

“Part of the retinoid/summer confusion comes from oral isotretinoin (Roaccutane), which can increase photosensitivity and the likelihood of burning, but that’s a systemic retinoid, taken by mouth, not a topical cream,” continues Dr Clare.

In short, unless your doctor puts you on an oral retinoid (and these would always be prescription-only), retinoids don’t make your skin burn faster in the sun. Instead, they’re less potent if exposed to sunlight. That’s why most retinoid products are recommended for use at night to maximise their effectiveness.

But can’t retinoids still be sensitising to your skin?

Yes! While not photosensitising, “topical retinoids can make your skin more reactive or fragile, especially if overused or introduced too quickly,” warns Dr Kiely.

That’s all down to their action of your skin.

By speeding up cell turnover, “retinoids reduce the thickness of the outermost skin layer,” explains Dr Siddiqi. “This weakens your skin barrier – the protective layer that holds in moisture and keeps irritants out – which can lead to dryness, dehydration and flaking.” Hot weather can then dehydrate your skin further.

“Retinoids also downregulate enzymes in sebocytes, lowering oil production, which is helpful for oily or acne-prone skin – but problematic for dry or balanced skin types,” continues Dr Siddiqi. “At the same time, barrier disruption and lipid loss can lead to a temporary pH imbalance, which may disturb skin enzyme activity and microbiome health.”

That all means that – especially when you first start using retinoids – your skin can become a little more sensitive, with heat, wind, sweat, and even other skincare triggering greater soreness, redness and inflammation in the summer.

Can retinoids help or worsen sun spots?

Annoyingly, it’s a bit of both.

Retinoids can help reduce the appearance of dark spots and uneven tone by clearing away the old clusters of pigment on your skin. However, you do need to use them carefully.

For Black skin in particular, any irritation from retinoids could lead to “post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation – dark spots caused when melanocytes produce more pigment in response to inflammation,” warns Dr Siddiqi. “Even mild irritation, like that from retinoids or the sun, can trigger this.”

That means, if you already have reactive skin, you should be extra careful in the summer: “If someone’s skin is already inflamed or peeling from retinoid use, then being in the sun (which is an additional stressor) is not ideal,” affirms Dr Kiely.

So, is that a reason to stop retinoids in the summer?

“Not necessarily,” says Dr Kiely. “You just need to ensure you’re being sun safe. Seek the shade, don’t be deliberately tanning or getting sunburned, avoid peak sun hours where possible, wear a hat and reapply SPF50.” Ultimately, that’s good advice whatever season we are in!

“Many clinical studies show that people can use retinoids safely all year, including summer, as long as they protect their skin from the sun,” agrees Dr Siddiqi. In fact, “stopping and starting retinoids can make side effects like irritation worse each time you restart, and skin conditions (like acne or hyperpigmentation) don’t pause just because the season changes.”

Could starting retinoids in summer actually be a good idea?

In fact, yes, it can be!

“I often encourage retinoid use in summer,” reveals Dr Kiely. “With more humidity and no central heating drying out the air, many people find their skin tolerates retinoids better in the warmer months.”

Don’t forget (as mentioned above) that retinoids work against sun-induced damage too – which is another plus point for their use in summer. “UV radiation breaks down collagen and accelerates ageing, while retinoids help repair sun damage, stimulate collagen, and normalise skin cell turnover,” Dr Kiely continues.

How to use retinoids safely in the summer

To give you and your skin a helping hand, here’s a few easy-to-follow tips when using retinoids in the summer:

1. Apply them at night

UV light breaks down retinoids. Use them only in your PM routine.

2. Start low and slow

“It’s always important to gradually build up tolerance – and in the summer that’s no different,” says Dr Kiely. “Just use a pea-size dab a couple nights a week, then gradually build up frequency.”

3. Hydrate your skin generously

Pair retinoids with moisturisers rich in ceramides, hyaluronic acid, and peptides to buffer dryness. Shop our top picks over on the TTG moisturiser shop!

4. Layer with SPF50 every morning

Always choose a broad-spectrum sunscreen and, especially when out in the sunshine, make sure to reapply it every two to three hours. Check out our favourite SPFs here.

The final word