Do You Actually Have To Stop Retinoids In The Summer?

Have you heard the rumour that you should put your retinoid down during the summer? Are you confused whether retinoids really make your skin more sun sensitive or whether you can you ever use them effectively in the sunshine, without causing more damage to your skin? You are not alone. There’s actually more myths out there than you might think!

We spoke to three skin experts – the aesthetic practitioner Dr Ahmed El Muntasar, the consultant dermatologist and founder of The Skin Diary Dr Clare Kiely and aesthetics practitioner Dr Ayah Siddiqi – to get the facts you need on how to use retinoids wisely when the weather heats up…

Very quickly – remind me what retinoids are?

“Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives used to treat acne, pigmentation, and signs of ageing. They work by speeding up skin cell turnover – helping your skin shed dead cells and replace them with new ones faster,” explains Dr Siddiqi.

The different versions of retinoids work in much the same way, but with different potencies, depending on how much they need to be converted in your skin. For example, retinol is a very common high-street option, retinal is a bit stronger, and Tretinoin is prescription-strength.

Do retinoids actually make your skin more sun sensitive?

Actually – not exactly.

“This is a common point of confusion,” explains Dr Kiely. “Topical retinoids are not photosensitising, they are photolabile. Photolabile means the molecule breaks down in sunlight, which can reduce its effectiveness if exposed to UV.”

That means that while it is true that using retinoids topically in the daytime isn’t recommended it isn’t because they make your skin more sensitive to the sun. It’s because the sun makes them less potent so you’ll see more benefits using them at nighttime.

Another reason for the confusion is that “oral isotretinoin (Roaccutane), can increase photosensitivity and the likelihood of burning, but that’s a systemic retinoid, taken by mouth, not a topical cream,” continues Dr Kiely. In short, unless your doctor puts you on an oral retinoid (and these would always be prescription-only), retinoids don’t make your skin burn faster in the sun.

But can’t retinoids still be sensitising to your skin, especially in summer?

Yes! While not photosensitising, “topical retinoids can make your skin more reactive or fragile, especially if overused or introduced too quickly,” warns Dr Kiely. And, that can be a problem when you then introduce your skin to summer stalwarts like the sun, heat and sweat.

By speeding up cell turnover, “retinoids reduce the thickness of the outermost skin layer,” explains Dr Siddiqi. “This weakens your skin barrier – the protective layer that holds in moisture and keeps irritants out – which can lead to dryness, dehydration and flaking.”

“Retinoids also downregulate enzymes in sebocytes, lowering oil production, which is helpful for oily or acne-prone skin – but problematic for dry or balanced skin types,” continues Dr Siddiqi. “At the same time, barrier disruption and lipid loss can lead to a temporary pH imbalance, which may disturb skin enzyme activity and microbiome health.”

All in all, that means that while you can still use retinoids in the summer, you need to be extra careful when using them to try to limit any side effects, especially because hot weather, wind and sweat may disrupt your skin barrier further, exacerbating signs of irritation, redness and dryness.

What’s the most important thing to bear in mind when using retinoids in the summer?

Sunscreen! Yes, you should be wearing it everyday already, but especially in the summer if you want to use retinoids effectively.

“Retinol can make your skin more sensitive, but if you’re not protecting it properly with sunscreen, you’re even more likely to experience irritation,” explains Dr El Muntasar. Ironically, using retinoids without sunscreen can also mean you can end up with more of the concerns you want to use retinoids to solve, such as wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, as these are predominately the result of UV damage.

“Many clinical studies show that people can use retinoids safely all year, including summer, as long as they protect their skin from the sun,” reveals Dr Siddiqi. As for how to do that, here’s Dr Kiely’s clear guide: “Seek the shade, don’t be deliberately tanning or getting sunburned, avoid peak sun hours where possible, wear a hat and reapply SPF50”. And, ultimately, that’s good advice whatever season we are in!

Could stopping during the summer actually be a bad thing?

It certainly could be slightly unhelpful. That’s because “stopping and starting retinoids can make side effects like irritation worse each time you restart, and skin conditions (like acne or hyperpigmentation) don’t pause just because the season changes,” explains Dr Siddiqi.

“Quitting for the season tends to do more harm than good,” agrees Dr El Muntasar. “Retinol works through consistent, long-term use, so stopping for three or four months every year interrupts the very benefits people are after, from fine lines and pigmentation to texture and collagen. Progress does not vanish overnight, but it slows, and restarting means going through the adjustment period all over again.”

Could starting retinoids in summer actually be a good idea?

In fact, yes, it can be!

“I often encourage retinoid use in summer,” reveals Dr Kiely. “With more humidity and no central heating drying out the air, many people find their skin tolerates retinoids better in the warmer months.”

Don’t forget (as mentioned above) that retinoids work against sun-induced damage too – which is another plus point for their use in summer. “UV radiation breaks down collagen and accelerates ageing, while retinoids help repair sun damage, stimulate collagen, and normalise skin cell turnover,” Dr Kiely continues.

Are there any occasions when using retinoids in the summer isn’t great?

“If someone’s skin is already inflamed or peeling from retinoid use, then being in the sun (which is an additional stressor) is not ideal,” warns Dr Kiely.

For Black skin in particular, any irritation from retinoids could also lead to “post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation – dark spots caused when melanocytes produce more pigment in response to inflammation,” warns Dr Siddiqi. “Even mild irritation, like that from retinoids or the sun, can trigger this,” so it is worthwhile being especially careful.

That’s also why it’s probably not recommended to start retinol for the first time just before your summer holiday, as beginners won’t know quite how their skin is likely to react to the ingredient.

“Summer, and especially the run-up to a sunny holiday, is not the moment to begin a high-strength retinoid for the first time,” explains Dr El Muntasar. If you are eager to start, it’s “far better to build tolerance gradually beforehand”, so look for a low-strength retinol and “for long days on the beach, by the pool or hiking, I would suggest easing off the frequency if skin starts to feel irritated.” Just remember, “the real risk is the skin barrier taking a hit from retinol, heat, salt water, chlorine and hours of UV all at once, rather than the retinol on its own.”

How to use retinoids safely in the summer

To give you and your skin a helping hand, here’s a few easy-to-follow tips when using retinoids in the summer:

1. Apply them at night

UV light breaks down retinoids. Use them only in your PM routine for the best results.

2. Start low and slow

“It’s always important to gradually build up tolerance – and in the summer that’s no different,” says Dr Kiely. “Just use a pea-size dab a couple nights a week, then gradually build up frequency.”

3. Hydrate your skin generously

Pair retinoids with moisturisers rich in ceramides, hyaluronic acid, and peptides to buffer dryness. Shop our top picks over on the TTG moisturiser shop!

4. Layer with SPF50 every morning

Always choose a broad-spectrum sunscreen and, especially when out in the sunshine, make sure to reapply it every two to three hours. Check out TTG’s favourite SPFs here.

The final word

Ultimately, “retinoids don’t change how your skin reacts to sunlight, and they don’t cause sunburn to happen faster,” concludes Dr Siddiqi. “While you should stop retinoids if your skin is actively inflamed, especially as sunlight can make the irritation or dark spots worse, don’t stop just because it’s sunny or summer. After all, your skin cells don’t have a calendar!”.