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 Skincare

Retinol and Retinoids

Written by: Becki Murray

Last Updated: 27 February 2024

Retinol is frequently touted as a wonder-ingredient for skin, but people are often scared to try it, because it has a reputation for making your skin dry and flaky. There’s also a lot of confusion around its use as a skincare ingredient. Firstly, for example, retinol is actually just one of a group of overarching skin-improving ingredients called retinoids derived from vitamin A. In good news though, retinoids can make your skin look fresher, less wrinkled, more even in tone, and smoother – and it’s widely considered a gold standard anti-ageing ingredient as result. Read on to find out everything you need to know.

retinol

What is retinol?

Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A and, as mentioned, is actually part of a wider group of vitamin A derivatives called retinoids. What makes them such an exciting ingredient within skincare is that retinoids have been widely studied and proven effective for various concerns, including reducing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation, as well as improving skin texture and tone.

Retinoids are available in various forms and concentrations, ranging from those available over-the-counter to prescription-strength treatments. It’s a balancing act between getting the best results and managing the well-known side effects of retinoids, including dryness and peeling.

How can retinol rejuvenate the skin and improve skin health?

When applied topically, retinol and other retinoids can provide a wide range of health-boosting effects in your skin. Firstly, they work by promoting cell turnover, stimulating collagen production, and reducing the breakdown of collagen, which helps to keep the skin firm and smooth. They also have exfoliating properties that can help unclog pores and prevent acne breakouts.

That’s two key skin concerns ticked off, and retinoids aren’t finished. Retinol can also help fade dark marks by encouraging the turnover of skin cells, enhancing skin radiance in the process too.

What are the anti-ageing benefits of retinoids?

More specifically, the anti-ageing benefits of retinoids and retinol include:

  • Boosting your skin’s natural collagen production, usually by speeding it up
  • Encouraging cell turnover, so your body creates new skin more swiftly
  • Reducing lines, wrinkles, and pore size
  • Fading age spots and hyperpigmentation
  • Improving your skin texture, firmness, and hydration

 

Can retinol help in treating acne?

Yes, retinol can help with acne in three main ways. It:

  • Keeps your pores clear. Retinol speeds up cell turnover, which keeps your pores clear by preventing dead skin cells building up in them. The build-up of dead cells is a major cause of acne.
  • Reduces oil production. Retinol can help your body reduce its production of sebum (natural oil). Excess sebum tends to clog your pores, causing acne.
  • Reduces inflammation. Retinol’s anti-inflammatory effects can reduce the redness and swelling of acne.

Retinol can also improve your skin texture, making it smoother and less susceptible to acne.

What are the differences between prescription retinoids and over-the-counter retinoids?

The short answer is that prescription retinoids tend to be stronger than over-the-counter retinoids; have greater effects on your skin, and may work faster; and so need more careful usage.

In the UK, over-the-counter retinoids include the following:

  • Retinol. This is widely used in over-the-counter skincare. Once you apply it, retinol goes through a two-stage conversion, first to retinaldehyde, and then to retinoic acid. The retinoic acid is what acts on your skin. This conversion means that retinol works more slowly, and with fewer side effects, than retinoic acid.
  • Retinaldehyde. Also called retinal, this retinoid needs only a single conversion step to become retinoic acid and trigger regeneration in your skin cells. Retinaldehyde is stronger than retinol.
  • Retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate, and retinyl acetate. These three retinoids are relatively weak and need a three-stage conversion before they act on your skin — first to retinol, second to retinaldehyde, and third to retinoic acid. They can be helpful for first-timers and those with sensitive skin.

Prescription retinoids include the following:

  • Retinoic acid (tretinoin). This is the strongest and most effective retinoid. Normally, you would use it under the supervision of a doctor or dermatologist.
  • Adapalene. This retinoid is used in prescription strength for treating acne.
  • Tazarotene. This retinoid is used for treating acne and psoriasis.
  • Isotretinoin. This is an oral retinoid used to treat severe acne. One brand name for isotretinoin is Roaccutane.

How effective are retinol serums compared to creams?

That’s a great question, but there’s no one-size-fits-all answer to it. Retinol serums and retinol creams are both effective, but exactly how effective a particular product is depends on its formulation, its concentration of retinol, and how you use it.

Generally, retinol serums have a higher concentration of retinol than creams, have a lighter consistency that facilitates absorption and lets them penetrate deeper into your skin, and can be layered under other products. As a result, a retinol serum may have a faster and stronger effect than a retinol cream.

By contrast, retinol creams typically not only have a lower concentration of retinol but also release the retinol more gradually, giving a gentler and slower effect. Creams also are thicker than serums and provide more hydration for your skin, helping avoid drying it out.

A serum may be a better bet if you have oily or acne-prone skin or if you have established that your skin has a high tolerance to retinoids. If your skin is dry or is sensitive to retinoids, a cream is likely to be the better choice.

What role does vitamin A play in skincare?

Vitamin A is an antioxidant that boosts collagen production and normalises cell turnover, speeding up cell turnover if it is slow or slowing it down if it is fast. Vitamin A can help repair the cellular structure of your epidermis, which may help prevent damage from exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light or repair such damage after it occurs.

Retinol and other retinoids are vitamin A derivatives so  that’s why they can help your skin in this way.

What guidelines should be followed for safe retinol usage?

When you’re starting to use either retinol or another retinoid, be aware that using too much of the product too fast is likely to irritate your skin. Classic side effects of using retinoids can include redness, dryness, itchiness, and skin peeling.

So go slowly with the retinol or retinoid. Use it twice a week for the first week and no more. A retinoid is active stuff: your skin needs a while to become accustomed to it, and you need to work out what sort of dose your skin can tolerate.

What precautions should be taken when using retinoids?

First, don’t use retinoids if you’re pregnant or breastfeeding. And, speak to your doctor first if you have any questions or concerns.

Otherwise, when using a retinoid, follow any specific guidelines on the product or provided by your doctor or dermatologist. If you have no specific guidance, follow these general recommendations:

  • Start slowly. You may be itching to see results, but too gung-ho an approach may have you itching literally — and perhaps peeling too. Apply a small amount of the product, just enough to cover your face (or other treatment area) thinly.
  • Apply the product to dry skin. If your skin is damp, the retinoid may be absorbed more quickly, which could irritate your skin. So give your skin 10–20 minutes to dry after cleansing it before applying the product.
  • Allow three full days for the product to take effect. If your skin is going to find your chosen retinoid irritating (and it may well do), it may take 72 hours for this irritation to show up in your skin. So if you just wait 48 hours, think all is fine, then apply another dose, you may get a strong reaction on the third day.
  • Use the retinoid consistently. Once you have worked out the frequency with which you can safely apply the retinoid, such as every other day or twice a week, use the retinoid consistently. Getting the results you want may take several weeks or months.
  • Moisturise your skin. Retinoids can dry out your skin, so use a good moisturiser.
  • Protect your skin against ultraviolet (UV) rays. Using retinoids freshens up the surface of the skin, making your skin more sensitive. So when you’re using retinoids, you must use sunscreen to protect your skin against UV rays.

Which retinol products are most effective?

Here are three effective retinol products:

  • Medik8 Retinol 3TR. Medik8 is big on retinols and retinoids. This is a great one to start with. The TR stands for time release, which means it is easier to tolerate as the retinol is drip-fed into your skin cells overnight, rather than all being dumped in at once. Then you can step up the strength, or progress to their R-Retinoate or Crystal Retinal products, which take your retinoid journey up towards prescription levels.
  • Skinbetter+ Intensive AlphaRet Overnight Cream. This is a skincare unicorn, in that you wouldn’t expect to find a bioengineered retinoid and glycolic acid combined in one product, but here they work beautifully together for powerful skin rejuvenation, supported by a bunch of peptides. This cream is also nice to use.
  • The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion. This budget product is gentle on the skin but gives decent results. A ‘granactive’ retinoid is an ester of retinoic acid, which means it’s hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR). In this formula, it is softened with hydrating glycerin and soothing bisabolol.

 

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