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 Skincare

Beta Hydroxy Acid

Written by: Becki Murray

Last Updated: 27 February 2024

Beta hydroxy acid, also known as salicylic acid, is a brilliant skincare ingredient for helping to clear blocked pores and reduce inflammation in spots while exfoliating the skin. It works in a similar way to alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), by dissolving the bonds that are holding old, dead skin cells onto the skin’s surface, so that fresher, clearer skin beneath is revealed. One key difference between BHA and AHAs is that BHA is oil-soluble, so it can dissolve its way into blocked, oily pores as well as working on the skin’s surface, while most AHAs are water-soluble, so they just give a surface exfoliation of the skin.

 

bhas

What’s the difference between BHAs and salicylic acid?

There isn’t one. Salicylic acid is the only beta hydroxy acid used in skincare – so the two terms can be used interchangeably.

How do BHAs work?

Like alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), BHA has a chemical exfoliating effect on the skin. It works by dissolving the ‘cellular glue’ or bonds that are holding old, dead skin cells onto the skin surface. That’s why using BHAs will give you fresher, smoother skin. Also, just like AHAs, BHA will help your skin to improve its hydration levels.

What is the difference between AHAs and BHAs?

Where beta hydroxy acid is different from alpha hydroxy acids is that it is not soluble in water, like the alpha hydroxy acids, but it is soluble in oil. That makes BHAs a really useful ingredient in skincare because the salicylic acid can actually weasel its way into clogged, oily pores and clean them out while also exfoliating the surface of the skin. This is excellent news for anyone plagued by skin that just will block up and break out if it gets half a chance. (Whereas, AHAs give a more surface level exfoliation). Keeping pores clear reduces the chances of spots and breakouts. Another benefit of BHA toner is that it is anti-inflammatory, so it can bring down redness and inflammation in spotty skin.

What is a BHA exfoliant?

A BHA exfoliant is a product which uses beta hydroxy acid’s exfoliating properties to its advantage to brighten and freshen the skin by removing dead skin cells from the surface.

Why is a BHA toner best for acne?

Salicylic acid is even better for acne than the alpha- or poly-hydroxy acids because, as mentioned, it’s oil soluble. This means that once applied as part of a toner, it can blend in with the sebum produced by your skin, and go deep enough to exfoliate the lining of the pore, helping to prevent spots from forming. Plus, it’s anti-inflammatory, which helps to reduce the redness and swelling you get in breakouts.

Is a salicylic acid toner good for spots?

Yes, a BHA/ salicylic acid toner is really helpful in managing spotty or congested skin, because it will help keep pores clear, give the skin a gentle exfoliation, reduce inflammation and improve moisture levels. That means it can help keep mild to moderate acne under control.

More specifically, BHA/ salicylic acid is an exfoliant, meaning that it helps to remove the outermost layer of dead skin cells that can make your complexion look dull, and which can block the entrance to pores. All spots, whether they’re acne pustules or blackheads or whiteheads, start off as a blocked pore. So keeping those pores clear means fewer spots, blackheads and whiteheads.

 

Why is sunscreen important when using BHAs?

Since salicylic acid can increase skin sensitivity to sunlight, it’s crucial to apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen during the day, even on days when you use the toner at night.

How often should you use a BHA exfoliant?

Most brands will say it’s fine to use BHA acid toners every day, but I’d suggest you start using it twice a week at first to assess how your skin gets on with it before using it more frequently. As with AHA acid toners, I would be careful not to over-use them. Keep an eye on how your skin responds to the product you’re using, and if it begins to make your skin sore or red, use it less so that your skin can recover.

How should you incorporate a salicylic acid toner into your skincare routine?

Incorporating a salicylic acid toner into your routine can be especially beneficial if you have oily or acne-prone skin. The best way is to start slowly, starting with a lower concentration – typically around 1-2% to allow your skin to adjust. Use it as part of your evening routine, after cleansing. Soak a cotton pad with salicylic acid toner and gently swipe it over your face, focusing on areas prone to breakouts but avoiding the eye area. Make sure you allow the toner to dry on your skin before applying other products. If you use other active ingredients, such as retinoids or vitamin C, you may want to alternate their use on different evenings to avoid potential irritation.

How to use a BHA exfoliant

You can find face-wash cleansers that contain salicylic acid/ BHA which are useful for oily skin. You are most likely to find BHA/ salicylic acid in the form of an ‘acid toner’ or lotion, which you put on to cotton wool and wipe around your face after cleansing. Allow it to dry before applying other products.

BHA sometimes comes in the form of a serum or a gel – these products should be applied with your fingertips and dabbed gently over the congested area of your face.

What are some of the best salicylic acid toners?

Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant: An iconic BHA exfoliant – this formula contains 2% salicylic acid and is designed to unclog pores, reduce blackheads and promote smoother skin in all skin types.

COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid: This leading Korean brand’s BHA contains 4% betaine salicylate, a gentler derivative of salicylic acid. It’s formulated to target blackheads and improve skin texture.

The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Solution: The Ordinary is known for its straightforward formulations at affordable price points. This solution offers a 2% salicylic acid treatment.

La Roche-Posay Effaclar Clarifying Solution Acne Toner: combining BHA with AHA (glycolic acid), this is a formula that targets both breakouts and improving skin texture.


FAQ ABOUT Beta Hydroxy Acid


Does BHA/ salicylic acid dry out the skin?

No – while BHAs can reduce skin oiliness, salicylic acid doesn’t dry out the skin. One of the things that all hydroxy acids do is help improve the hydration of the skin from the inside. What salicylic acid/ beta hydroxy acid can do is reduce the oiliness of the skin, and this may be why some people say BHA ‘dries out’ the skin.

Does salicylic acid thin the skin?

No, BHA/ salicylic acid doesn’t thin the skin. People sometimes think this because the ingredient has an exfoliating effect on the outer layers of the skin, so it helps to clear away dead skin cells from the surface of the skin. BHA helps improve skin hydration, which ‘plumps up’ the skin a fraction and improves skin health, and also reduces inflammation within the skin, so it is really good for the skin.

Do I need a beta hydroxy acid serum?

If your skin tends to get lots of blackheads, a beta hydroxy acid product could be your new best friend. If you have sensitive skin but still want to try the product, you could start with a product that has a lower concentration of BHA.

Is beta hydroxy acid safe?

Yes it is! The reason that you might have heard it could be unsafe is that it makes your skin more sensitive to sunlight – in theory making you more vulnerable to aging, burning and skin cancer. However, this is very easily and routinely protected against by wearing sunscreen (which you should be doing as part of your skincare routine anyway!).

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I have a little line of large pores that have appeared on my chin. How do I get rid if them? Thank you.

We can't get rid of our pores – what you're seeing is oxidised oil that's collecting in the pores. To get the pores a bit clearer, products with salicylic acid will help, because this exfoliating acid can dissolve its way through oil, so it can clear pores out from the inside. You can use a cleanser with salicylic, though what I find most helpful is using a product with 2% salicylic acid to wipe over the area regularly (every two days to start with, and if your skin is fine with that, then every day), to help decongest the pores. For a faster, more drastic result, find a clinic that can offer a facial peel with 30% salicylic acid – I had...

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