Retinol? Banned? Help!

Retinol is being banned! That’s a headline that’s likely to make any skincare aficionado sit up, listen, and potentially panic a little bit (or, okay, a lot). After all, retinol has quite the status as an ‘anti-ageing’ hero ingredient, known for its ability to reduce the appearance of key skin concerns, from wrinkles to breakouts. 

So, when the news recently broke that retinol use was starting to be restricted in the UK, the questions, rained in: what’s happening, why is it happening, and when is it happening? But, before you start stockpiling your favourite retinol products, we spoke to the experts to discover exactly what you need to know…

So is retinol really being banned?

Banned is probably a little dramatic. Retinol use in the UK is going to become more restricted, but that doesn’t mean it is going to disappear from the shelves (or our routines) completely. At least not in all its forms.

“The UK is introducing legislation, approved in the EU, which restricts the use of retinol in products available for purchase to specific concentrations,” says leading aesthetic doctor Dr Sophie Shotter. “It is being applied to the UK despite Brexit under special agreements,” confirms the aesthetic doctor and Skinceuticals expert, Dr Ana Mansouri.

The concentration in face products will be limited to 0.3% and body products will be 0.05%, say both doctors.

Why is this happening? 

While restricting retinol might seem like one big inconvenience, there are some pretty good reasons behind the decision. One of the main ones is the very real side effects that a potent skincare ingredient like retinol can have if used incorrectly.

“In my job, I see so many patients with compromised and irritated skin barriers through overuse or misuse of active ingredients, the most common one being retinol,” reveals Dr Shotter. “This legislation will prevent this from being an issue in the future.”

Another big problem, according to Dr Shotter, is a rising risk of hypervitaminosis – namely elevated systemic levels of vitamin A, which can be toxic.

“Products have become stronger and stronger, and people are using them more frequently on larger surface areas by applying retinoid body products,” says Dr Shotter. “In the past hypervitaminosis was a rarity linked to people using strong topical retinoids for acne, but the concern is that it could become a more frequently encountered issue.”

Is stronger not better though?

That’s actually a big misconception – especially if you aren’t using a potent ingredient like retinol under expert guidance.

“The legislation will benefit the public by safeguarding consumers from incorrectly using this potential irritant without adequate professional guidance, as this may lead to adverse reactions and even scarring, especially if used simultaneously with facial procedures such as hair removal,” affirms Dr Mansouri.

With luck this legislation will also help brands be a little more clear about the strength of their formulas – which can only be a good thing in the long run. After all, currently, skincare marketing can be rather confusing (some may say deliberately so). In particular, there are a lot of retinol ‘complexes’ around, where brands say they have a certain strength of retinol in their formula, but it is actually a combination of different derivatives and even plant-based alternatives, so the product may not be as ‘strong’ as they seem to claim. Luckily, the restrictions are likely to mean this has to change.

Where will I be able to get retinol?

If you’re currently getting your retinol from the high street or an online retailer and it’s over 0.3% or 0.05%, you won’t be able to get it in the same way once the restrictions are enforced. However, whether you’ll need a prescription for retinol products over these values remains to be seen.

“What we don’t yet know is whether some stronger retinol formulations will be available via physicians without prescription or whether it will all come under the umbrella of prescription products,” says Dr Shotter.

Either way, you’ll be able to get stronger retinols through a dermatologist, aesthetic doctor or online services such as Get Harley, Skin & Me and Dermatica. As for high street brands – yes, unfortunately they are going to have to reformulate or take the products off the shelves.

Equally, there will likely be at least some reduction in availability of retinols on the high street in general, at least until new formulas are released.

“Manufacturers haven’t yet figured out exactly what this means for them,” Dr Shotter explains. “But one thing’s for sure, it won’t be viable for them to manufacture different products solely for the UK and EU markets and so we are likely to see some popular products disappear.”

What about retinol derivatives?

The restrictions refer to retinol, and its derivatives, such as retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate. However, the legislation doesn’t seem to extend to retinal – a form of vitamin A that only requires one conversion into retinoid acid (which can be used by your skin).  So, there may still be potent options available to you on the high street. However, watch this space for confirmation…

When’s the ban coming into place?

“It actually became law at the end of 2023,” says Dr Shotter. “But there is a grace period for manufacturers to adjust which means we won’t feel the full impact of the legislation until [May] 2027.”

However, don’t be surprised if your favourite brands start to slowly reformulate and relaunch their retinol-based products over the next couple of years.

How to use retinol responsibly 

Just remember, slow and steady wins the race when it comes to retinol. Regardless of the restrictions to come, most practitioners already advise building up your usage slowly, starting with a low concentration once or twice a week.

“In my experience, frequent and consistent use of gentler 0.3% retinol is adequate to tackle specific skin concerns without the risk of causing significant reactions,” agrees Dr Mansouri.

Then, after you’ve given your chosen formula time to work (that’s at least six weeks, by the way), you can always take Dr Mansouri’s advice and consult a medical skin practitioner for assessment of whether a higher-strength retinol via prescription is best for your skin goals.

The bottom line? “Don’t panic about the restrictions, and definitely don’t stockpile your existing products as they have expiry dates,” concludes Dr Shotter. After all, whether or not you will need to see a practitioner for a prescription in the future, you will still be able to include retinol that works in your skincare routine.”

For now, here are a few of our favourite retinol products that you’ll be able to get regardless of the new restrictions:

Best for sensitive skin: Skinbetter+ AlphaRet Overnight Cream, £119.90, via Get Harley

Best for face and neck: Skinceuticals Retinol 0.3, £80, and Tripeptide-R Neck Repair, £128

Best for retinol beginners: Medik8 Crystal Retinal 3, £49

And, for personalised skincare advice tailored to your own needs, why not book a consultation with TTG’s skincare therapist Shenaz.