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What no one has been able to explain to me is why collagen isn’t treated like any other ingested protein and proteolysis doesn’t take place. I.e. protease breaks the collagen into basis’ amino acids?

Hi, you’re basically asking how collagen supplements do what they claim to do. As I understand it, protein in the diet is broken down by the stomach acids into long-chain amino acids, whereas the hydrolysed collagen in collagen supplements is broken down into short-chain amino acids that the body recognises and knows what to do with. Plus, the presence of more of collagen in the body prompts our bodies to create more of its own. Totally Derma has tested this to show that the product not only makes it through the stomach but shows up in the skin,

What would be your recommendation for a 38-year-old starting to show signs of ageing? Dark circles, fine lines and general lacklustre, dull skin.

I’m very keen on a supporting skin from within with appropriate supplements. My favourite three are a liposomal vitamin C called Altrient C, Totally Derma collagen drink, and OG omega-3 supplements which all benefit the skin in different ways. Tweakments-wise, a round or two of an injectable moisturiser treatment might help boost your skin condition and skin strength and amplify the effects you get from skincare and supplements.

Can I stop taking my Rejuvenated Collagen Shot now I have started taking Altrient vitamin C? Do they both do the same thing collagen-wise or am I best to carry on taking both daily?

Hi, you could and see how it goes, though it will take a few months before you can tell the difference. I take both Totally Derma collagen drink and Altrient C every day because they stimulate collagen production in the skin in different ways, and after discussing this with researchers who look in to the detail of supplements and still take both, I haven’t dared to stop!

I rarely use eye makeup (or indeed any makeup), but I am starting a new job and wearing contact lenses again after many years, and want to know if I need to use a specific eyemake up remover? I would only really be wearing eyeshadow and rarely mascara.

I don’t think you’ll need a specific makeup remover, it depends on your preference. If you’re concerned about getting it on your lenses, I’d take them out before you start. I usually prefer to take off my eye makeup first with micellar water and cotton wool pads (or eco alternatives) just to shift the worst of it before going in with a normal cleanser, or I’ll use a bi-phase make-up remover (the sort with an oily layer, that you have to shake up before using) to remove the more resilient sorts of mascara. Those are oily and can get in your eyes/ onto lenses, but then if it’s the end of the day, I’ll usually take the lenses out before I remove makeup. This cleansing oil is really effective at getting rid of make-up (including mascara) and is also great for the skin.

I am taking collagen powder and Altrient C along with probiotic tablets. I am unsure whether it is ok to take all together or should I take them separately throughout the day? What gives the best results or does it not matter?

For the collagen and vitamin C it really doesn’t matter too much. Sticklers for precision would prefer that you took the Altrient C on an empty stomach (for faster absorption) and the collagen in the evening, but the key thing is just to take them, your body will work out what to do with them. Re the probiotics, I don’t know which brand you’re taking, but see whether there is any specific advice about when to take them (e.g. with food/ before meals) on the packet.

I have had cataract surgery done recently. Is it safe to do radiofrequency treatments after two weeks following surgery? Is it safe to use Nuface device and red LED mask following eye surgery ?

I would double check all these things with the surgeon who did your cataract surgery and follow their advice on that and wait until the healing is complete.

Hi Alice, can you please recommend a good eye cream & concealer for mature skin?

I’m a big fan of the Elequra Eye Architecture cream which is light, hydrating and supportive. Re a concealer, I’m loving Monika Blunder’s Blundercover which is a foundation that you apply with a brush so you can dabble as much or as little under the eyes as you need. Or, I just use the Neostrata Sheer Physical Protection SPF50 all over my face and as it has a light tint, I find it makes a good concealer, too, if your colouring is at all like mine.

Zooki have a collagen supplement – is this liposomal delivery better than Totally Derma? Would it be an overload to take the two? Or shall I just stick with Totally Derma? Thanks. Cath x

Hi Cath, I don’t know if Zooki’s collagen supplement contains liposomes – the Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) ruled that Zooki’s Vitamin C didn’t contain liposomes in November 2021, so they have been changing their claims since then, and the same may apply to their collagen. Totally Derma is fab and it’s all you need for collagen supplementation, though I back it up with Altrient C which has a proven liposomal delivery system and which boosts collagen production by a different mechanism.

I’m 51 with very dry skin/sun damage (Queensland, Australia) with no skincare routine or tweakments. I don’t know where to start! Skin treatment? With menopause I just look so tired!

Ah, sympathies. I’d start with your doctor, to consider hormone replacement, as this has such a huge and fundamental effect on everything from brain and heart health, to our skin (more oestrogen means more collagen in the skin, which means stronger, firmer, better hydrated skin that doesn’t look so old and tired). Then skincare! Take a look at the skincare advice on our downloadable factsheet about dry, rough skin, which you can grab on this page.  If you want more detail, I’ve written a whole book called Start with Skincare which you can find on Amazon. In terms of products, start with a gentle cleanser, a vitamin C serum, a moisturiser and a sunscreen every morning, then in the evenings, use the cleanser, some sort of night treatment product with retinol, and moisturiser. Give it a few months and your skin should be looking and feeling much better. Good luck.

I’m getting married next year and want to get my skin in the best shape possible but don’t really know where to start. Could you recommend anyone in particular who could help with a number of things (scarring, red around nose, congestion, etc.) in London :)

Wow, congratulations! Start with your skincare – I’d suggest a gentle cleanser, a vitamin C serum, a moisturiser, and a sunscreen for the day, and for the evening, something with retinol or retinal (a bit stronger) in it, plus the moisturiser. Take a look at this collection to see the sort of products I prefer, and how I’d suggest using them. Then find a great practitioner – you can put your postcode into our practitioner finder – and book a consultation to see what they suggest to treat your other concerns.

What are the best skin products for sebaceous hyperplasia? I am 48 years old. I have taken care of my skin since early 20’s with cleansing, acids, moisturising and then Vitamin C, nicinamide and Retinol 1%. But hyperplasia is difficult to treat.

You’re right, sebaceous hyperplasia, where you get lots of little bumps under the skin where oil has become trapped, is an absolute pain. I have lots of them on my face and when I went to see a dermatologist about this recently, he told me that they become more common with age, and to get rid of existing ones you need to tackle them directly with lasers. To reduce the rate at which they’re forming, he suggested sticking to skincare that would clean, hydrate and regenerate the skin without adding any extra oil, so that’s a glycolic or vitamin-C based wash-off cleanser, an L-ascorbic acid vitamin C serum in the mornings, plus a hyaluronic acid serum for hydration, then a mineral-based sunscreen, and at night, the same glycolic wash, plus a glycolic-acid night treatment product (or retinoid), or just the hydrating serum if you don’t want to use the treatment product every night.

How do I get rid of downward lines on my forehead? Vertical at the sides of my face I think from squishing my face into the pillow at night. toxins? I have regular toxins for my frown lines on my forehead so I don’t appear to be cross when I’m not but my practitioner says no to doing them for my vertical lines as it will make my eyebrows drop. I hate these lines but won’t have surgery. Any advice?

If your practitioner says toxins won’t work on these lines, maybe that is because they’re being made by the way you sleep, as you suggest, rather than by muscle movement. It might be worth trying something simpler than tweakments, like the Dr Harris Anti-Wrinkle Sleep Mask, which looks like a normal sleep mask but has small silicone bumps on the inside that press on muscle receptors in the face to relax them (it’s clinically proven to relax frown lines between the brows). These slight bumps are set in a pattern that goes over the eyebrows and around the sides of the eyes, and they grip the skin very gently and I find that these stop me from scrunching up my face when I sleep – Dr Harris, the inventor, says the same. It’s a lot cheaper than toxin, so it might be worth a try!

How long do the bulbs last in a Dermalux device? Do they need servicing so they remain safe to use?

Years! The device has a two-year guarantee and I gather it has held up well when stress-tested to show that it can run pretty well continuously for five years, which is far more use than it will get even from a busy clinic. Find out more about the Dermalux Flex MD here.

Hello…. I’m interested in knowing about the Body Ballancer treatment. Have you heard good things about it? Thanks so much. Silvana

Hi yes the Body Ballancer is fab, the treatment is really good for improving lymphatic health (which brings serious health benefits) and also on the aesthetic side brings about volume reduction – by dispersing water retention – and also improves the look of cellulite no end.

There are various videos about the Body Ballancer on the site so take a look to learn more about it.

Have you tried the lyma laser ? xx

Yes I have tried the Lyma ‘laser’ but I’m not a fan – I used it every night for months on end in spring 2021 (on one side of one wrinkle on my neck, and on the knuckles of my left hand, as advised by the brand founder,) without getting any results.
My laser-manufacturer acquaintances laugh at it when I ask them what they think of its supposed powers of rejuvenation. Why?
‘Look, this isn’t competition to us,’ said one. ‘Laser?’ laughed another. ‘That’s more of a laser pointer.’
The Lyma makes enormous claims, claiming the sort of results that it normally takes several rounds of in-clinic treatment to achieve, and has the flimsiest scientific backup  – and despite making these claims the company hasn’t seen fit to put the product through a single clinical trial or comparison with other devices.
It has been brilliantly and stylishly marketed and it has persuaded a lot of journalists who should have asked a few more questions to repeat its extravagant marketing claims. What should they have asked? How can a device the size of a torch with a rechargeable battery generate enough power to do what it says it does? Or how can any light which is allegedly strong enough to prompt healing deep within the skin be safe to use around the eyes/ shine directly in your eyes without protection?  Why do they suggest using an oil or cream with the product to give it ‘slip’, when any oil or cream will distort the light beam that’s reaching the skin?
For what it’s worth, if you are contemplating spending that much money, I know the Dermalux Flex works a treat because I gave it full road testing during lockdown #1 and got brilliant results. Plus it has a medical CE certification which means it can make medical claims to treat, for example, acne and heal wounds. That’s why I have added the Dermalux to the shop on my site, and haven’t added the Lyma. I know which one actually works.

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